In La Ciotat, Kristin discovers a seaside ritual – and feels the quiet pull to join in
Our southern French town is famous for cinema, pétanque and its scenic littoral. So stunning, La Ciotat was named one of the most beautiful bays in the world a few years back. This expansive turquoise cove is a magnet for fans of les sports nautiques: swimmers, surfers, kiteboarders, wind foilers – and the gregarious marcheurs en mer.
When we moved here some years ago, I immediately noticed those all-weather water walkers… webbed gloves on their hands, thick rubber combinaisons and chaussures aquatiques. Setting off in groups large and small from the east end of La Plage Lumière, they navigate waves, swimmers, even the occasional stinging méduse, making their way, chest-deep, across the shimmering expanse.
WALKING ON WATER
I hear their éclats de rire while walking my dog along the beach. As soon as Ricci’s paws hit the sand, she beelines toward the abandoned sacoches, where the walkers have tucked their affaires (and a few snacks?) beneath towels. I tug her away – lest, not far offshore, the seawalkers spot us. I don’t want to risk their disfavour… not when I’m secretly hoping to one day join them.
After all, it seems like such a good sport – gentle on the knees, well balanced, and right here at the water’s edge. There are so many reasons to try it. And yet… I hesitate. I’m not really a group person.
I’m not sure I want to wear a wetsuit or commit to early morning meet-ups. But the other day, a report on TV piqued my interest. They were interviewing local marcheurs en mer, and that’s when I discovered there was a name for the sport: le longe-côte. Just learning the word opened a door. Suddenly, I wanted to know more.
A Google search for longe-côte produced videos, articles, and even books on the topic. I saw it was created by Thomas Wallyn of Dunkirk, known as ‘Monsieur Longe-Côte’. A rowing coach, he was looking for a fun entraînement for his team. Linked to the French Hiking Federation, it has grown to include more than 100 clubs and thousands of participants.
Sea runners and
shoreline walkers are among the people making the most of the seaside
IT STARTS WITH A WORD
Still, I remained on the rivage, watching, wondering – sometimes from La Paillote, the café where the longe-côteurs gather afterwards to warm up over a café au lait.
Seated there one morning, I ran into an acquaintance. “Have you tried it?” I asked. “No,” she said. “It’s not really for me – the groups, the equipment…”
“I know.” “But we don’t have to commit just yet,” she added. “We could start on our own. Are you free Thursday?”
Her offer touched me. And I realised there is a word for that, too. Complicité – that quiet understanding between two people willing to try something new together. Sometimes, just putting a name to something is enough to get going.
From France Today Magazine
Lead photo credit : KRISTIN ESPINASS
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